Perfumes are prized in ancient civilizations such as Mesopotamia, Egypt, India and China. The word “perfume” comes from Latin per fumum, meaning “through smoke,” which refers to the practice of burning fragrant materials as in incense.
The global cosmetics market size is USD 295.95 billion in 2023 with the perfume market alone expected to reach USD 64.41 billion by 2030. Cosmetics continue to dominate youth economy in cultures around the globe.
Perfumes are infused into human culture for over 6,000 years, emerging in Mesopotamia. These early fragrances are integral to religious ceremonies. For instance, Egyptians use myrrh and spices like cinnamon and rosemary in embalming, along with natron salt.
Aroma-seeking alchemists blend oils and resins to create subtle layers of fragrance. In the ancient world scents are part of rituals and daily life. Incense from floral to spicy, resins such as myrrh and frankincense are used both for fragrance and attributed spiritual properties.
Aromatherapy is considered healthy even in the old days. Medicinal incense recipes are created, the products burnt on braziers to spread smoke and scent.
Myrrh has the misfortune to be associated with death for several reasons. One, it's used in church paintings of egg tempera to cover up the smell of egg decay and curing, which can take a few months.
Two, it's popular in the "beaks" of plague doctors as a scent to cover the smell of decay. Three, it's used in Egyptian embalming. Four, it has a musty grave-like scent. Nonetheless myrrh is one of the most expensive resins on the ancient world trade routes.
In ancient Greece and Rome, perfumes are status symbols. Wealthy citizens commission custom scents crafted by skilled artisans. This burgeoning market drives innovations in extraction and blending, catering to an increasing desire for unique fragrances.
Cosmetics have a similarly long and varied history. Kohl (stibnite) is used to line the eyes, to provide protection against the sun’s glare and ward off infections.
Talc, harvested from mineral deposits, gives a silky texture to the skin. Due to concerns about its proximity to asbestos in nature it's less used today, replaced with cornstarch. Mineral clays such as Earth of Chios, Earth of Sinope or Armenian bole are ascribed health benefits.
Eau de Cologne is a type of perfume originating in Cologne, Germany. Created by Johann Maria Farina (Giovanni Maria Farina) in 1709, it becomes a general term for fragrant blends with concentration of 2–5% or higher, based on the mix of essential oils, alcohol and water.
Typically based on diluted ethanol (70–90%), cologne includes a blend of citrus oils. These cover a wide range and may incorporate oils of lemon, orange, tangerine, clementine, bergamot, lime, grapefruit, blood orange, bitter orange, and neroli.
It may also use oils like lavender, rosemary, thyme, oregano, petitgrain (orange leaf), jasmine, olive, oleaster, and tobacco. Rose water is still used today as a revitalizing skin splash.
To make rose water simply simmer a couple cups rose petals in a lidded pot for several hours, adding water as needed. The water should just cover the petals. When hydrosol (the liquid) develops a soft refreshing fragrance, cool and bottle the rose water. Store away from light.
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