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Soy Sauce: A Cultural Culinary Odyssey

Sylvia Rose

Soy sauce has a rich umami taste and complex traditional production process taking time and skill. Originating in Asian cuisine, it's a zesty creation of fermented soybeans popular throughout the world.




The history of soy sauce goes back over 2000 years. This savory condiment originates in East Asia, specifically in China during the Western Han Dynasty (206 BC – 220 AD).


As centuries pass it becomes integrated into to the culinary traditions of Japan, Korea and other regions. Each add unique flavors to the mix. Soy sauce is also valued for its preservative qualities.



It's a classic for dipping dumplings
It's a classic for dipping dumplings

Soy sauce is created from just four core ingredients: soybeans, wheat, salt, and water. The quality of these ingredients affects the final flavor of the soy sauce.


  • Soybeans: These provide a robust umami flavor. A typical batch uses around 60% soybeans for protein and taste.

      

  • Wheat: Added for sweetness, grains like wheat balance the salty profile. Wheat constitutes about 30% of the mixture.

      

  • Salt: Essential in fermentation, salt preserves food and enhances the flavor, accounting for nearly 10% of the ingredients.

      

  • Water: Clean water in the production process helps maintain flavor integrity.




From these basic components soy sauce can appear in infinite variety. Soy sauce is a liquid condiment made by fermenting soybeans and grains with a mold culture, usually Aspergillus species.


Fermentation breaks down complex proteins and carbohydrates in grains and soybeans into simple, more flavorful components. The result is a salty, savory sauce with complex aroma and wide range of culinary applications.



soybeans
soybeans

In Japanese culture, pouring soy sauce on white rice is poor etiquette, as it implies the rice lacks flavor. This practice is rooted in deep respect for the natural delicate taste of rice, meant to complement flavors of other dishes.


Similar to many salty condiments, soy sauce is initially a method to extend use of salt, a costly commodity. In ancient China during the Zhou dynasty (1050 - 221 BCE), a condiment made of fermented fish with salt is popular.



salt fish
salt fish

It includes soybeans in the fermentation process. By the Han dynasty several centuries later, it's evolved to a recipe for soy paste and a by-product, soy sauce, using soybeans as the main ingredient.


Meanwhile, fermented fish-based blends take a culinary swerve. They develop separately into the various fish sauces known today.



fish sauce
fish sauce

The Traditional Method: A Time-Honored Tradition


The traditional method of soy sauce production is a lengthy and labor-intensive process. It can take several months, even years. This method is often referred to as naturally brewed or fermented soy sauce.


Preparation of the Koji: Koji is a mix of cooked soybeans and roast wheat inoculated with Aspergillus mold spores. These are usually Aspergillus oryzae or Aspergillus sojae.


The mixture is cultivated in a temperature and humidity-controlled environment for several days. The mold grows, producing enzymes. These later break down the proteins and carbohydrates.



Aspergillus oryzae microfungus
Aspergillus oryzae microfungus

Brewing the Moromi: Koji is then mixed with brine to create a mash called moromi. This mix is transferred to large fermentation tanks, often made of cedarwood, and allowed to ferment.


Fermentation: Fermentation takes months or years. Enzymes from koji break down proteins and carbohydrates into amino acids, sugars and other flavorful compounds. Moromi is regularly stirred for even fermentation and to prevent growth of unwanted bacteria.



soy sauce moromi
soy sauce moromi

Pressing and Pasteurization: Once fermentation is complete, moromi is pressed to extract the raw soy sauce. This liquid is then pasteurized to kill any remaining microorganisms and stabilize the flavor and color.


Filtration and Bottling: Finally, the soy sauce is filtered to remove any sediment, and bottled as a true work of art. Soy sauce comes in many types, each with distinct characteristics tailored to different culinary uses.




Popular varieties include:


  • Shoyu: The soy sauce of Japanese cuisine, shoyu has a balanced flavor and moderate saltiness. It's brought to Japan from China by vegetarian Buddhists in the 7th century

      

  • Tamari: Typically gluten-free, tamari contains little or no wheat. It's more robust and less salty than shoyu.


  • Light Soy Sauce: Used frequently in Chinese cooking, this variety is salty and light in color. Light soy sauce compliments dressings, cold dishes, stir-fries, braising, steaming, marinating, in seasoning dumpling fillings and in dipping sauces.


  • Dark Soy Sauce: Known for its thicker consistency and sweeter flavor, it's often used for braises and stews. It's favored in red cooking, a traditional Chinese slow braising technique.


  • Sweet Soy Sauce (Kecap Manis): Made in Indonesia, this thick, syrupy sauce tends toward sweetness and is frequently used in marinades and dipping.




Modern Methods: Speeding Up the Process


To meet the growing global demand, modern soy sauce production often uses faster and cheaper methods.


Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein (HVP) Soy Sauce: This method is a chemical process using hydrochloric acid to break down soybeans into amino acids. The resulting liquid is neutralized with sodium carbonate, filtered, and colored with caramel.


This process is significantly faster than fermentation and can produce soy sauce in a matter of hours. However, the flavor is considered inferior to naturally brewed soy sauce.




Accelerated Fermentation: This method combines elements of both traditional and HVP processes. It uses a shorter fermentation period, often with added enzymes, to speed up the breakdown of soybeans and wheat.


This method results in a soy sauce that is more similar in flavor to naturally brewed soy sauce through it lacks the depth and complexity of the traditional process.




Culinary Uses of Soy Sauce


  • Marinades: A fundamental ingredient in marinades, soy sauce enhances meat and vegetable flavors.


  • Soups and Broths: Soy sauce deepens and enriches flavors.


  • Dressing: Good with basic oil and vinegar. Pairing it with sesame oil brings in a nutty, aromatic flair.


  • Dipping Sauce: Soy sauce can be used on its own or mixed with wasabi, chili, or garlic.





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