Artists and craftspeople have used plant pigments as a source of color for millennia. Works of art and textile dyes using vegetable pigments are found in Neolithic times c. 10,000 BCE. Natural dyes and pigments are profitable on early trade routes.
The Alchemy of Nature: Extracting Plant Pigments
Art of Plant Pigment Extraction
Artists from ancient cultures around the world, including Egyptians, Romans, Mayans and Chinese, use the natural tones of plant pigments. The process of extracting plant pigments first involves carefully selecting plant parts rich in color, like leaves, flowers, roots, and bark.
Materials Needed:
Fresh plant material (leaves, flowers, roots, or bark)
Mortar and pestle (or a blender)
Water
Saucepan
Strainer or cheesecloth
Glass jars or containers for storage
1. Madder Root (Rubia tinctorum)
Extracting deep reds and earthy tones, red madder root has been a staple in dyeing textiles for centuries. Boiling the chopped roots in water or alcohol releases the red dye, which can be used in textiles, paints and cosmetics.
2. Indigo Plant (Indigofera tinctoria)
Known for its rich blues, the indigo plant requires a unique fermentation process to extract its signature color. This prized pigment has been a favorite among dyers for its range of shades from sky blue to deep navy. The indigo leaves produce the coveted blue hue.
3. Weld Plant (Reseda luteola)
Yellow hues are in abundance with the weld plant, which was favored by ancient civilizations for its bright and lightfast properties. Boiling the plant's leaves and stems creates a vibrant yellow dye suitable for textiles and paints.
4. Turmeric (Curcuma longa)
Turmeric is a cheerful bright yellow. Related to ginger, the roots give a zesty flavor to food. To extract the dye, the roots are grated and boiled. This plant is often used to dye robes of Buddhist monks.
5. Hibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa)
Flowers produce a deep red pigment / dye. Dried flowers are infused in boiling water to extract the vibrant color.
6. Beetroot (Beta vulgaris)
The root is the source of rich red purple dye. Fresh beets can be boiled down to create a strong pigment that works well for both textiles and paints.
7. Avocado (Persea americana)
The pits and skins can be simmered to extract a soft peach or pink color. Avocado is also a deep-skin moisturizer.
8. Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)
Green is the color of the spinach dye. Steam and blend spinach leaves for a natural green. Nettles also produce a good green.
9. Onion Skins (Allium cepa)
Yellow or red onion skins yield yellow to orange colors which can be used to dye fabric. Another source of yellow pigment or dye is marigold petals.
10. Elderberry (Sambucus nigra)
Bark and leaves of elderberry produce yellow-toned dyes. The berries can be boiled or macerated to extract dye, but dyers warn of the non-fastness of elderberry berry dye. A mordant can be used.
Other sources of plant colors for dyes and pigments include carrots, blueberries, red cabbage (purple), and woad. The last takes some extra time and labor. Experimentation is also fun.
Preparation: Wash the chosen plant material thoroughly. Chop it finely to increase the surface area for extraction.
Maceration:
Place the chopped plant material in the mortar and pestle and grind it into a paste. If using a blender, add a small amount of water to help the process.
This process releases the pigments from the plant cells.
Boiling: Transfer the ground plant material to a saucepan and add enough water to submerge it.
Bring it to a boil and then let it simmer for about 30-60 minutes. The longer it's simmered, the more intense the color will be.
Watch the consistency and add more water if necessary.
Straining: Once the color is right, strain the mixture through a strainer or cheesecloth to separate liquid pigment from solid plant material.
Storage: Pour the liquid pigment into glass jars or containers. If planning to use it for dyeing fabrics, it’s best to add a mordant like alum to improve colorfastness. Store the pigments in a cool, dark place, and, if possible, refrigerate them for longer shelf life.
About Mordants
A mordant is a substance that bonds with fibers to enhance the permanence of natural colors. By preventing fading or washing off, mordants play a crucial role in preserving the vibrancy of natural dyes.
While various mordants exist, they share two key characteristics: they are metal salts and can create an insoluble bond with fibers and dyes. Different metal salts, such as aluminum, iron, and copper salts, need specific formulations and are effective on certain types of fibers.
Alum or aluminum salts are the most commonly used mordants. They are easy to use and make natural dyes lightfast, washfast, and vibrant.
Tannins can be used independently or to enhance lightfastness of different dyes. They're available in colors such as beige, yellow, and pink. When mixed with iron, they produce a variety of deep hues like grey, moss green, and brown.
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