From vibrant reds extracted from roots to the deep blues synthesized from leaves, plants have abundant natural dyes and also health benefits. Historical use and processing of natural dye from plants goes back millennia. Woad and other dyes are found in prehistoric cave burials.
Long before synthetic dyes are widely available, ancient and medieval people turn to various plants and natural sources to create the hues that adorned their textiles, cosmetics, and art. Colors such as red, yellow, blue, black and purple are gifts of nature.
Here are seven important dye plants used in antiquity, where they like to live, their historic and medicinal uses. Certain key key compounds provide their distinctive colors and attributes, and many are coveted for their essential oils in health.
1. Red Madder - Rubia tinctorum
Red madder is native to the Mediterranean region and cultivated through Europe, Asia, and North Africa. This plant is used since antiquity for dyeing textiles such as wool and cotton. Its use dates back to ancient Egypt, where it adorned royal garments and linen. The name "madder" comes from the Arabic word meaning "to dye."
The primary dyeing agent in red madder is alizarin, which produces a beautiful red hue when extracted from the roots. Alizarin is historically significant enough to be a major trade product, often called "Turkey red" in the textile market. It's one of the favorite colors of artists.
If that's not enough, this plant also yields color due to the compound purpurin, which produces a more golden color. Historically, red madder is also used in medicine for its ever-reducing and diuretic properties.
2. Dyer's Woodruff - Asperula tinctoria
Dyer's woodruff is found in shaded woods across Europe and western Asia, often thriving in slightly moist soil. This plant root is used to create red dye, especially during the medieval period. It's favored for dyeing wool and creating colored textiles for religious use.
The primary dye compound is coumarin, giving a fragrant scent and rich, warm colors when processed. Coumarin is also found in cinnamon. In traditional medicine, dyer's woodruff is used for gentle diuretic properties and as a balm for digestive issues.
The red dye obtained from dyer's woodruff is important in coloring textiles, though red madder produces more dye. Dyer's woodruff enjoys immense popularity in Greco-Roman times.
3. Asphodel - Asphodelus
Asphodel is a perennial plant of the Mediterranean regions, prospering particularly in sandy soils and dry grasslands. Known for its bright yellow dye, it's also called the Yellow From Root plant. The root of asphodel is used to color textiles, particularly in ancient Greece and Rome.
It's often used for garments of wealth and status. The yellow color comes from a group of carotenoids found in the roots, with anthraquinones such as asphodelin responsible for its vibrant hue. Medical properties include anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects.
Bog asphodel or Bastard asphodel
The bright yellow star-shaped flowers of bog asphodel make it a popular choice of pollinating insects. Shetland Island inhabitants have long used bog asphodel as a dark-saffron-colored dye. It's once popular as a hair dye.
4. Woad - Isatis tinctoria
Woad is a biennial plant native to the Mediterranean region, now commonly found across Europe. It's famous in ancient Britain for its vibrant blue dye used in textiles and body paint among the Celts. Unlike indigo, it's widely grown in Europe due to its climate adaptability.
The principal dye compound indigo is released upon fermentation of the leaves. Woad dyes deep blue, often associated with nobility and military symbolism. Historically, woad is believed to have antibacterial properties, used in poultices and medicaments for skin ailments.
The compound in woad responsible for its blue hues is indigotin, revered for dyeing abilities and medicinal properties. The main use of indigo is as dye for cotton yarn, as in production of denim cloth for blue jeans. On average a pair of jeans needs 3 grams (0.11 oz) to 12 grams (0.42 oz) of dye.
5. Alkanet - Alkanna tinctoria
Alkanet is predominantly found in the Mediterranean basin, thriving in rocky and sandy soils.
Alkanet produces a reddish-purple dye from its roots, used for textiles and cosmetics in ancient civilizations. It's a common ingredient in Roman oils and ointments.
The major dyeing agent in alkanet is alkannin, which imparts a deep and rich color when extracted. Alkanet has been used in herbal medicine for its soothing properties, particularly in treating skin irritations and as an anti-inflammatory.
Also called dyer's bugloss, alkanet is used to color wines, alcoholic tinctures, vegetable oils and glazes or varnish. It's an ingredient in cosmetics and food coloring.
6. Indigo - Indigofera
Indigofera is a genus native to tropical and subtropical regions, with some species widely cultivated across India, Africa, and other parts of the world. Indigo has a storied history, being a primary source of blue dye in many cultures.
It's important to production of dyes and textiles traded through the indigo trade routes. The indigo trade routes move the dye or fabric to China and Vietnam from India. It's a beautiful dye for silk. Indigo, for which the plant is named, is responsible for its iconic blue hue.
Its components include indigotin, indirubin and tryptanthrin. The compounds of indigo carry anti-inflammatory properties. Indigo is also used in traditional medicine for cooling qualities and its applications in treating fever and infections.
7. Oak Galls
Oak galls are produced by various species of oak trees and can be found wherever oaks thrive, spread across temperate regions. Oak galls were historically used to produce a dark black dye, often utilized in ink production as well as in dyeing textiles.
Galls are unusual growths developing on plants as a result of egg laying activity of specific insects such as wasps, mites, or fungi. The growths has distinctive characteristics and uses.
The tree forms a hard shell around the eggs to protect the rest of the tree.
The color is derived from tannins present in the galls, which react with iron salts to produce a complex black dye. In traditional medicine, oak galls are valued for their astringent properties and were used to treat various ailments, including digestive disorders and wounds.
Weld - Reseda luteola
Originally from Europe and Western Asia, the weld plant has become established in North America where it's commonly found along roadsides and in fields. It has a sociable nature and often grows along with other plants.
For best color yield, harvest the plant before fruits reach advanced development, when pigment concentration decreases. Leaves and flowers both have high levels of pigment. The plant is credited with pain-relieving, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties.
Various shades can be made under differing conditions (such as type of mordant or time spent in dye bath). The plant is rich in luteolin, a flavonoid which produces a bright yellow dye. The yellow could be mixed with the blue from woad (Isatis tinctoria) for greens like Lincoln green.
In Neolithic times people experiment with natural colors. Çatalhöyük (Catalhoyuk) is known for dye-making among other artisan skills by c. 7000 BCE. Vessels of dye made with madder root (red), woad (blue) and weld (yellow) are also found at prehistoric sites.
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