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Sylvia Rose

Earth of Chios: Ancient Alchemy, Cosmetics, & Medicine

Updated: Sep 23

Earth of Chios is a white to gray powdery mineral soil or fine grained clay found on the Greek island of Chios. Earth of Chios or Chian Earth has been used since prehistoric times for its multifaceted applications in medicine, cosmetics, pigment and alchemy.



sun beams into a cave onto a patch of white earth

What is Earth of Chios?


Earth of Chios, or "Chios clay," is a fine, powdery soil harvested from volcanic ash deposits on the island. Many of the Greek islands are formed by volcanic action. Known use of Earth of Chios goes back to ancient Greece.


The kaolin-rich white soil is found near Pyrgi in the south of the island. This soil has been used since ancient times for its astringent and cosmetic properties, referred to as "Chian earth" in Latin (Chia terra) and as πηλομαιοτικο (pēlomaiotiko) in Greek.



kaolinite powder

Its formation is attributed to the unique geological and climatic conditions of the island, along with the presence of kaolinite {Al2Si2O5(OH)4}, a clay mineral used for its many benefits. Earth of Chios is white because it has almost no impurities like iron and organic materials.


On collection, white clay earth is often refined and filtered to remove colorants, increasing the concentration of pure white kaolin or halloysite minerals. Some clays are bleached but these don't have the same composition as kaolinite earth.



Kaolinite mineral
Kaolinite, the primary active mineral of Chian Earth

How to Use Mineral Clay


  1. Face Masks: Mix Earth of Chios with water or a carrier oil to create a paste that can be applied to the face. Leave it on for 10-15 minutes before rinsing off with warm water for a mini spa experience at home.

  2. Foot Soaks: Dissolve the clay in warm water for a refreshing foot bath that helps draw out impurities and soften skin.

  3. Poultices: Use the clay in a poultice form to soothe minor wounds, cuts, and insect bites, combining the clay with water and applying it directly to the affected area.

  4. Detox Baths: Add Earth of Chios to your bathwater for an indulgent detox that helps cleanse the skin and restore balance.



a nice facial

On collection, white clays are refined and filtered to remove any colorants, increasing the concentration of pure white kaolin or halloysite minerals. If buying these products be sure to deal with a reputable source.


In pottery, pure kaolin is the clay of choice for bodies that need to be clean and white. Many porcelains contain only a kaolin mix as their clay complement, although kaolins have relatively low plasticity compared to other raw clay types.



white clay dried out

Kaolinite doesn't get its name until the 18th century. Archaic terms for kaolinite include lithomarge and lithomarga, derived from the Latin lithomarga (stone marl). In contemporary usage, lithomarge is now specifically used to describe a dense and solid type of kaolin.


The Earth of Chios is white because it has almost no impurities like iron and organic materials. Iron oxide can color the earth yellow, orange or red. Often this formations create multicolored stripes with layers of rock. Iron oxide clays are also used for beauty and health.



Striped rock formation, colors by iron oxides
Striped rock formation, colors by iron oxides

In alchemical processes it imbues a transformative power. It's a common ingredient in recipes for silver-making. Earth of Chios also goes into creation of elixirs for eternal youth and health.


It's prominent in recipes from the Leiden Papyrus c. 300:


For silvering objects of copper: tin in sticks, 2 drachmas; mercury, 2 drachmas; earth of Chios, 2 drachmas. Melt the tin, throw on the crushed earth, then the mercury, and stir with an iron and fashion into globules.

And for manufacturing of asem:


Tin, 12 drachmas; mercury, 4 drachmas; earth of Chios, 2 drachmas. To the melted tin, add the crushed earth, then the mercury, stir with an iron, and put (the product) in use.


Kaolin stones at a quarry
Kaolin stones at a quarry

Chian earth is renowned for its cosmetic benefits. It provides a whitening and smoothing effect on the skin. The powder is believed to prevent wrinkles more effectively than other substances for the same intended use.


Earth of Chios is almost certainly used by Italian Renaissance cosmetic queens Caterina Sforza and Isabella Cortese, and other alchemists specializing in beauty products. Like many trade items it's named for the place it comes from, such as Armenian bole and Cypriot copper.



Isabella Cortese is a woman of ambition
Isabella Cortese, a woman of ambition

Purveyed for its gentle exfoliating, anti-inflammatory and purifying properties, this natural earth is used in face masks, skincare products, and baths. This clay is making a comeback in the beauty industry. It's sold in various forms: face masks, cleansers and makeup products.


By drawing out impurities and toxins from the skin, Earth of Chios and other mineral clays help reduce blemishes and redness. The exfoliating effect reveals increases healthy blood flow for a more luminous complexion.



great complexion

It can be used as a painters' pigment, ground to fine powder and mixed with a binder such an oil or egg yolk. It can also be found in some non-toxic white house paints.


A group of common clay minerals, kaolinites are hydrous aluminum silicates, which comprise the main ingredients of kaolin (china clay). The group includes kaolinite and its rarer forms, dickite and nacrite, halloysite, and allophane.



china clay
China Clay

Non-Fiction Books:


Fiction Books:

READ: Lora Ley Adventures - Germanic Mythology Fiction Series

READ: Reiker For Hire - Victorian Detective Murder Mysteries







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