Alchemy of the ancients includes skills such as preparation of dyes, pigments and mordants for fabric and stone. Purple dyes are especially in demand. Alchemists have first-hand knowledge of the dyeing process, techniques and materials needed.
A mordant is used to affix the dye to the fabric, rock or other surface. The mordant reacts with molecules of the dye and creates an impenetrable bond with the substance. Colors stay light-fast, bright and clear. Many different mordants exist for the ancient dyer.
Mordants have individual properties. It's necessary for the alchemist to understand the different methods and types of mordant needed whether dyeing rock crystal, textiles or sheep.
Dyeing and pigment making are considered part of alchemy into the 18th or 19th century. Fabric dyers and gemologists eventually take different paths, just as alchemy once splits from its predecessors metallurgy, gemology and ancient medicine to form its own identity.
Ancient Mordants, and a couple which can be used today:
"Boil chalcanthum and skorpiurus and employ for any desired color. These substances, however, also mordant all kinds of stones and skins."
Chalcanthum, also known as chalcanth or calcanthum in alchemy, refers to blue vitriol (CuSO4) and the ink produced from it. The term can be confusing because it's also used for red vitriol (a natural cobalt sulfate) and green vitriol (ferrous sulfate), also a popular mordant.
Among alchemists, opinions differ regarding whether calcanthum is identical to colcothar or merely vitriol (sulfuric acid). Skorpiurus refers to Scorpiurus, scorpion's-tails or spiny caterpillar plants of the legume family.
The two species are Scorpiurus muricatus, used in cuisine, and Scorpiurus vermiculatum, also edible. Both are native to the Mediterranean region. Heliotropium angiospermum, related to borage, is also called scorpion's tail.
Another Mordant Recipe:
Dissolving of Alkanet
"Alkanet is dissolved by oil, water, and nuts. The best of all dissolving mediums is, however, camel’s urine. For this makes the alkanet dye not only fast, but also durable."
Alkanet is among the most popular dye plants in ancient and medieval times. The meaning is specific to dyers' alkanet or Alkanna tinctoria. Other plants called alkanet don't work the same way.
The charming blue flowers hide a root brimming with red-purple pigment. By the early centuries AD it's used to make gems of ruby from quartz stones.
Another recipe:
Dyeing with Mulberries - Grape Mordant
"To dye with mulberries take and crush unripe bunches of grapes and mordant the wool therein for 3 days. On the fourth day put this grape juice in another pot and boil the wool therein, but when it boils lift it out, rinse it with water and let it become cold.
Then take juice of mulberries and boil up until it boils twice. Put the wool in and let it become cold therein and it will be a fine excellent purple ... "
Other ancient mordants include gall nuts, very popular and effective due to the tannins therein. Lacking any of these, urine (stale urine, camel urine, urine of an uncorrupted youth) makes a good mordant and is recommended through the centuries.
Mordanting with Oak Galls:
Wet the fibre by soaking in water between one hour up to overnight.
Simmer the oak galls (or sumac leaves) in about 4 gallons (18 liters) of water for one hour.
Leave the solution to cool, then strain off the tannin liquid.
And on the ground ...
Symplocos grows throughout the world and ingests alum into its roots. The dry fallen leaves are the best source of alum and easy to collect.
Macerated into liquid they are an effective mordant with a pale yellow tinge. This adds warmth to greens and reds and may create a blue-green with the right dye.
Non-Fiction Books:
Fiction Books:
READ: Lora Ley Adventures - Germanic Mythology Fiction Series
READ: Reiker For Hire - Victorian Detective Murder Mysteries
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