The art of wig-making in history dates back to pre-Bronze Age Egypt. The earliest known Egyptian wig is found in a female burial at Hierakonpolis, dating c. 3400 BCE. In Egypt, wigs are usually made of human hair and dressed with oils, wax or gels, resins and perfumes.
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The wig of Merit, wife of Kha, a royal overseer of tomb building, is found in the tomb of the couple in Thebes. Made in the 14th century BCE, the wig is of human hair. To create the crimped look the hair is wet-braided, and unbraided when dry.
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Merit's wig is similar those of the women below. They're a special class of temple musician called Awalim, who also play for harems. The cones atop the wigs gradually dispense scent and conditioning oils.
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According to researchers Yakeen Hafouda and Paul Devakar Yesudian:
"Predominantly worn by the elite of Egyptian society, wigs served a dual purpose: they signaled high rank in Egypt's strict social hierarchy and helped protect shaven scalps from the sun. Wigs also helped maintain hygiene levels by reducing the incidence of head lice."
Wig Making
Egyptian wig-making is an intricate process. Human hair is the preferred material for wigs and becomes an important commodity of trade. Like saffron, hair is worth more than its weight in gold.
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See this wig at the British Museum. According to description:
"Wig made from human hair impregnated with beeswax and resin. This type of wig, comprised of both curled strands and plaits, would have been worn by a man of high status."
A wig of any style is a work of art, woven through a mesh shaped to the head of wearer. Women's wigs are longer than those of men, with exceptions. The wig might be dressed with combs, beads, feathers, ornaments and scents depending on the fashion.
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The hairdresser is responsible for maintaining elite hair, especially wigs. Wig care includes cleaning, styling and fitting them to the person's head. In ancient Egypt hair dressers are usually men.
Beliefs in Egypt surrounding hair vary from desirable to demonic. It's thought evil spirits can enter the body through the hair. Finely dressed hair or wigs are also a status symbol. Head shaving became an option in Egypt with the invention of the copper razor c. 3000 BCE.
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Nubian Wigs
As the legend goes, Queen Nefertiti (c. 1370 - 1340 BCE) is beguiled by the hair styles of Nubians in the Egyptian army. The Nubians come from lands south of Egypt, the area of Sudan today. Nefertiti has a wig made to imitate their coiffures.
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In the work below Nefertiti wears the lappet style or layered Nubian wig. Despite the destruction of many of her monuments following her death, later royals adopt and adapt the Nubian wig.
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Natural Hair
According to archaeologist Natalie McCreesh in an article by Jo Marchant, an analysis of 18 mummies shows hair styled using fat-based "gel". She says wigs are more prevalent among the elite and "the majority of the mummies I've looked at have their own hair."
Wig or natural, the hair is treated separately from the body, or Khet, at death. The mysterious hair gel, components not yet known, shared by several mummies. It ensures the style stays in place, in both life and death.
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An example of a female mummy with her own hair is Tiye (d. 1338 BCE), the mother of Pharaoh Akhenaten and mother-in-law of Nefertiti. In life she's proud of her hair and keeps it carefully groomed. The Egyptian goddess connected to long beautiful hair is Hathor.
The sidelock of youth is worn by children of Pharaohs. Usually a braid, it connects to childhood and the youthful god Horus. As a child Horus wears the sidelock as heir to his father Osiris. For royals, the sidelock is symbolic of their right to rule.
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When the child reaches maturity, the lock is cut and offered to the God Horus. Above, Ramesses II (c. 1303 - 1213 BCE) wears the sidelock along with the cobra crown or uraeus signifying his royal status. The lock is worn by both princes and princesses.
The barber, another essential worker in Egyptian society, is responsible for shaving the people. His tools are scissors, razors, tweezers and ointments. Barbers cater to different classes. Royal barbers have tenure at court. A people's barber often has stations outdoors.
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In the 14th century servants and slaves are shaven bald and forbidden to wear hair. Priests and scribes (often the same person) also shave their heads. The wig above, an adaptation of the Nubian wig, is popular for men during the later Ptolemaic period.
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